Gonna find me an Angel…
Switzerland
MARK NICHOLLS discovers the perfect location to chill out in Engelberg-Titlis
Snuggle up for a night in an igloo.
THERE are certain factors you have to take into consideration when hosting guests in an igloo village. Make sure the sleeping bags are cosy enough, that there are blankets for the guests and plenty of warm food and hot drinks.
Of course, some of the considerations combine the aesthetic with the practical – as I discovered when offered a welcome cup of mulled wine on arrival at the Iglu-Dorf, situated some 1800m above sea level on the slopes of the family-friendly ski resort of Engelberg in the heart of Switzerland.
It wasn’t the rich ruby gluhwein I’d expected but hot white wine; equally warming but an odd colour for the occasion, I thought.
However, as it was pointed out - spill white mulled wine on the floor of your ice-house hostelry and nobody notices. Serve dark mulled wine and any spillage runs the risk of turning the ‘snowy’ carpet
of your igloo into something akin to the remnants of a Quentin Tarantino movie set.
My first experience of sleeping in an igloo village, and my first taste of mulled white wine, collided on one of the more interesting nights I’ve had in a ski resort for some time.
It can get cold outside on the mountains at the Iglu Village on Lake Trübsee above Engelberg in the depths of winter but inside the igloo village it’s pretty ‘cool’ in every sense of the word. It’s not freezing, just cozily-cold, when you are all wrapped up with a warm drink in your hand and a sleeping bag to look forward to that has been designed to withstand temperatures of minus 40c.
The giant igloo dome hosts a number of rooms from ‘family suites’ that sleep two adults and four children to more spacious romantic hideaways for two people with their own private facilities. In total, it can hold 55 people when fully booked.
But from the moment you are escorted to the igloo village, greeted with a hot drink and a guided tour of the snow-carved corridors and chambers, it is a great experience.
You are shown your room – often decorated with innovative ice sculptures – and you can then relax at the ice bar before a meal of Gerber cheese fondue, or pasta. An optional excursion is a night-time snow-shoe walk around the frozen lake, following a starlit path through the mountains, or you can even enjoy at outdoor jacuzzi.
The night passes in surprising comfort and coziness – though one night only is sufficient – and after you’ve hiked across the Alpstübli mountain restaurant for breakfast you can carry on skiing.
As a resort, Engelberg – which translates as Angel Mountain – is
Engelberg has one of the longest downhill runs in Switzerland.
and ideal for a long weekend or mini-break with just under 100km of pistes at between 1050-3020m above sea level. The skiing is varied with lovely blue runs, interesting reds and plenty of off-piste with Engelberg considered to be one of the best free-ride destinations in the Swiss Alps with runs such as Laub, Steinberg or Galtiberg.
There is also a great run down into Engelberg, one of the longest downhill runs of this Alpine region, from the top of Mount Titlis. The 12km-stretch has a 2,000 metre difference in altitude and a guaranteed snow base.
Yet Engelberg is a resort with its quirks and attractions; head up to Mount Titlis and you can enjoy a ride in the Rotair, the first revolving aerial cable car in the world with 360-degree Alpine panorama and then take a walk across the highest suspended bridge in Europe for further spectacular views. Set at 3,020 meters with a 500-metre drop, the bridge spans from the south face at the peak of the mountain to the Ice Flyer chair lift station located on the glacier.
The terrain also attracts non-skiers; wealthy visitors from India or China who want to enjoy the Swiss snow-scape and ride up and down the cable cars for the views. Indeed, Engelberg became a popular location for Bollywood winter scenes with Switzerland doubling as the Himalayas, notably for the popular film Lagaan - hence the attraction for Indian citizens. One hotel (Hotel Terrace) in the resort even converts
Take a walk across the highest suspended bridge in Europe.
itself into a mini India during the summer months to cater for such guests with a genuine Indian kitchen and décor to match the cuisine.
Apart from skiing, there are plenty of other activities in Engelberg, including winter hiking, snow shoeing, sledging, cross country skiing, mountain walks and electric snowmobile bikes. And there’s no shortage of traditional Swiss restaurants to dine in, such as the family-run hut Flühmatt before hiking down the mountain with flaming torches to one of the apres-ski bars.
In the town itself, you can visit the massive monastery complex with what is believed to be the largest organ in Switzerland, or discover the art of local cheese-making with a range of flavours introduced into the cheese such as chili, wasabi…and, inevitably, curry!
Travel facts:
Flights: SWISS offers up to 32 daily flights from the UK to Switzerland. For reservations call 0845 601 0956 or visit www.swiss.com with road shuttle transfer from Zurich to Engelberg. Alternatively, take the train and enjoy the views.
Accommodation: Mark Nicholls stayed at the Hotel Bellevue, with prices from 200-280 Swiss Francs (approx. £140-£200) per room per night in winter. Visit www.bellevue-engelberg.ch
Igloo Village: www.iglu-dorf.com/en/standorte/engelberg.htm Prices start from 159 Swiss Francs (£113) for a standard 6-bed igloo. All prices are per person and include the fondue dinner, tea, snowshoe-tour and breakfast.
Ski passes: For the whole ski area, ski passes cost 62 Swiss Francs for one day £44/115 Swiss Francs, or for two days £82/164 Swiss Francs.
For more information on Engelberg, visit: www.engelberg.ch
For more information on Switzerland, visit: www.MySwitzerland.com
or call our Switzerland Travel Centre on the International freephone 00800 100 200 30
